Saw build along – Assembly, Part III

This is the eighteenth entry in a nineteen part series that covers the construction of one of my saws from start to finish. For links to the other entries, please see the full chronological index.  -Ed.

Drilling bolt holes, toothing, final assembly, and test cuts

I drill the holes in the blade with a 3/16″ carbide spade drill bit. They drill quickly and cleanly and last a long time.

I drill the holes in the blade while it is in the handle.  This ensures perfect alignment.

I drill the holes in the blade while it is in the handle. This ensures perfect alignment.

Deburring the drilled hole with a countersink bit.  The carbide spade drill bits don't leave much of a burr, but it's still better to remove it.

Deburring the drilled hole with a countersink bit. The carbide spade drill bits don’t leave much of a burr, but it’s still good to remove it.

 

It is finally time to sharpen the saw. I will not cover this topic in-depth, as it deserves far more attention than I can give it at this time. It will, I am sure, be fodder for future posts and articles. What follows is a quick overview of the steps I go through, but lacking the details and finer points.

After jointing the blade, I cut the teeth. Using a paper template to guide the spacing, each tooth is marked with one stroke of a file. With each tooth marked, I remove the template and finish filing them.

After this first filing, I set the teeth, then joint them. After marking them again with Dykem, I resharpen one last time.

Filing the blade to the correct depth.

Filing the blade to the correct depth.  I use tape on each side of the blade to prevent scratching.  The tape also improves the grip of the jaws.

Checking for straightness.

Checking for straightness.

Jointing the blade.  I use a small piece of aluminum angle to ensure the edge is perpendicular to the sides.

Jointing the blade. I use a small piece of aluminum angle to ensure the edge is perpendicular to the sides.

Marking the edge with Dykem.  This makes it much easier to see when the flats at the tip of each tooth has been removed.

Marking the edge with Dykem. This makes it much easier to see when the flats at the tip of each tooth has been removed.

I use lined paper wrapped around the blade to guide me when filing in the teeth.

I use lined paper wrapped around the blade to guide me when filing in the teeth.

Forming the teeth.  While the paper is on the blade, I use one stroke to mark the tooth, then remove the paper and cut the rest of the tooth.

Forming the teeth. While the paper is on the blade, I use one stroke to mark the tooth, then remove the paper and cut the rest of the tooth.

 

When the teeth are sharpened, I run the back and blade across a deburring wheel to clean them up one last time. This done, I can assemble and test the saw.

Many makers install the split nuts and bolts a hair proud of the surface of the wood, then sand them flush. This is a tried and true method, but I have had trouble in the past with the brass dust staining the surrounding wood. I now sand the fasteners first, then install them as close to flush as possible.

I normally use a fixture on a belt sander to grind the bolts to the correct length, but in preparation for an impending move, it is in storage. For the time being, I do them old-school style, filing by hand.

Measuring the thickness of the handle - 0.903".

Measuring the thickness of the handle – 0.902″.

Filing the bolt to length.

Filing the bolt to length.

Checking the length of the bolt - 0.892".  I like the bolt to be about 0.010" to 0.020" shorter than the thickness of the handle, which will allow for future tightenings.

Checking the length of the bolt – 0.892″. I like the bolt to be about 0.010″ to 0.020″ shorter than the thickness of the handle, which will allow for future tightenings.

Sanding the fasteners on 220 grit sandpaper. The finish from the lathe is pretty good, so this sanding usually takes just a few seconds.

Sanding the fasteners on 220 grit sandpaper. The finish from the lathe is pretty good, so this sanding usually takes just a few seconds.

Bolt and nut with lathe finish (top), and after sanding (bottom)

Bolt and nut with lathe finish (top), and after sanding (bottom)

Cleaning finish and stray wood fibers out of the counterbored holes.

Cleaning excess finish and stray wood fibers out of the counterbored holes.

Installing the split nuts.  I like to align the slots with the grain of the wood; this is for no other reason than appearance. The handle on the split nut driver is perpendicular to the slot, making the correct alignment easy to see.

Installing the split nuts. I like to align the slots with the grain of the wood; this is for no other reason than appearance. The handle on the split nut driver is perpendicular to the slot, making it easy to see how the slot is aligned.

 

After all this work, it is finally time to take the measure of the saw. Every saw I file is tested in wood(s) and tasks similar to those that the future owner will use it on.

The first, and most critical, test is to cut to the full depth of the blade. This reveals any tendency of the saw to drift to one side or the other, and verifies that the set is sufficient to run without excess friction.

A test cut with the new saw.  In these tests, I bury the saw all the way to the back.  I don't mark any line, preferring that the saw track as it wants to and without any unintended influence.

A test cut with the new saw. In these tests, I bury the saw all the way to the back. I don’t mark any line, preferring to let the saw track as it wants to and with no unintended corrections on my part.

Checking the offcut for straightness.  This offcut is slightly convex.  Since this piece was on the right side of the saw, the saw tracks to the right.

Checking the offcut for straightness. This offcut is slightly convex. Since this piece was on the right side of the cut, this saw tracked to the right.

Stoning the right side of the saw blade to correct the drift.  Light and easy is the way to go here.

Stoning the right side of the saw blade to correct the drift. Light and easy is the way to go here.

After stoning to correct the drift, the next offcut is also checked for flatness.

After stoning to correct the drift, the next offcut is also checked for flatness.

 

Only after I am satisfied with how the saw tracks and cuts will the saw be sent out. There is still a chance that it will need some tweaking to fully suit the customer, but at least I know these changes will be needed because of differences in our sawing preferences and styles, and not problems inherent to the saw.

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One Response to Saw build along – Assembly, Part III

  1. Charley says:

    Wow. Terrific series of articles! Explaining the care, expertise, and amount of time put into each saw goes a long way toward proving the tool’s value. Maybe I’ll own one some day!

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